A road that stayed closed until 1992
Upper Mustang was closed to outsiders until 1992, and the permit system that followed still shapes how it is visited. This tour makes that journey on a Royal Enfield Himalayan 450, a bike chosen for mixed terrain. The ride begins on the highway from Kathmandu, gradually leaves tarmac behind, and arrives in a high, dry landscape that feels very different from the green foothills. It is a ride rather than a walk, so distance is covered quickly, but days are long and the surfaces vary. We would rather you arrive knowing that than be surprised by it. The reward is access to a region that most visitors reach only after days on foot, and a settled, living culture at the end of it.
From the valley floor to the walled city
The route runs from Kathmandu to Pokhara, then north along the Kaligandaki valley through Kalopani, Marpha and Jomsom to Muktinath and Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. From Kagbeni the road continues north through a string of villages to Lo Manthang. After a full day exploring Lo Manthang and Chhosar, you ride back the way you came, via Jomsom and Pokhara, to Kathmandu. The scenery shifts from terraced foothills to a gorge, then to apple orchards and stone villages, and finally to open plateau. Road and weather conditions can change the day’s plan, and your guide adjusts accordingly.
The Loba, the Thakali and the pilgrims
Three communities shape the route. In and around Marpha, you will see Thakali stone houses and orchards. At Muktinath, Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims share a sacred site. In Lo Manthang, the Loba people maintain a culture that feels closer to Tibet than to lowland Nepal, expressed in its monasteries, walled layout and religious life. We ask riders to approach all of this with care: ask before photographing people, homes or sacred spaces, keep noise down at monasteries, and treat ritual practice as living belief rather than spectacle.
Pace, effort and altitude on two wheels
You are riding rather than walking, but the effort is real. Expect long days in the saddle, uneven surfaces that ask for active body positioning, and plenty of concentration. The route climbs from Pokhara through the Kaligandaki valley into Upper Mustang, so altitude matters even on a motorcycle. Some riders notice tiredness or a light headache; the best response is a steady pace, rest and plenty of fluids. If you have had altitude illness before, speak to your doctor before booking. Regular motorcycle riding and general fitness are the foundation. This is not a trip for someone learning to ride, or for anyone with serious back or neck problems.
Where you sleep, what you eat
In Kathmandu and Pokhara you stay in hotels. In Mustang, you stay in simple lodges run by local families. Rooms are basic, hot water is unreliable, and Wi-Fi is not available throughout. Facilities vary from one lodge to the next, and we do not promise services such as charging or heating. Meals in Mustang are included, and typically feature Nepali and Thakali dishes such as dal bhat, momos and thukpa. Tell us about dietary needs in advance so we can pass them on to the lodges. Drink only boiled or treated water.
When the roads are rideable
Spring (March–April) and autumn (September–October) are the best-supported seasons for this ride. Spring tends to be the busier of the two, and autumn is often quieter. May and November are possible but less predictable. December to February brings snow and freezing nights and is suited only to very experienced riders. We do not operate in June–August, when monsoon conditions bring landslide risk and make the roads unreliable. Weather and road conditions can change at any time, and no itinerary can promise otherwise.
Our approach
Every group travels with a licensed, English-speaking guide, at a ratio of 1 guide for every 7 guests. A factory-trained mechanic and a support driver travel with the group in a 4×4 vehicle. We arrange the required permits, private airport transfers and Kathmandu hotel nights. Salary and insurance are provided for all crew members. Before departure, each rider receives a safety briefing, and we expect proper protective gear. We will not start a trip without proof of valid insurance, and we are candid if we think the trip is not the right fit for you.
Side panel: The fine print that matters
- Guide ratio. 1 licensed, English-speaking guide for every 7 guests.
- Support crew. A mechanic and support driver travel with the group in a 4×4 vehicle.
- Permits. All required permits are arranged by The Himalayan Guides.
- Crew welfare. Salary and insurance are provided for all crew members.
- Your insurance. Personal travel, medical and evacuation insurance is required and not included.